Prayer flags above the wide valleys of Bumthang

Central Bhutan · 2,600 m

Bumthang

Four broad valleys, some of the oldest temples in the Himalaya, and Bhutan's spiritual heartland.

Chumey, Choekhor, Tang and Ura — high, open valleys of buckwheat fields, sacred sites and weaving villages, where Buddhism first took root in Bhutan.

If western Bhutan is where most visitors fall for the country, Bumthang is where many fall for it a second time. Over the passes beyond Trongsa lie four high, wide valleys — Chumey, Choekhor, Tang and Ura — of buckwheat fields, pine forests and villages where the pace of life slows right down.

This is the spiritual heartland of the kingdom. Guru Rinpoche meditated in a cave at Kurjey; the seventh-century Jambay Lhakhang is among the oldest temples in the Himalaya; the treasure-revealer Pema Lingpa was born here and found sacred texts in the river at Mebar Tsho. Almost every hillside has a story.

Allow at least two nights. Walk between temples, visit weavers in Chumey, taste cheese and honey made in the valley, and if your dates allow, join the crowds at one of Bumthang’s ancient festivals.

Things to see

  • 01

    Jambay Lhakhang

    Traditionally dated to 659 AD, one of 108 temples said to have been built in a single day to pin down an ogress.

  • 02

    Kurjey Lhakhang

    Three temples around a cave where Guru Rinpoche is believed to have meditated, leaving the imprint of his body.

  • 03

    Jakar Dzong

    The 'castle of the white bird', overlooking the Choekhor valley.

  • 04

    Mebar Tsho — the Burning Lake

    A deep pool in the Tang river where the treasure-revealer Pema Lingpa is said to have recovered sacred texts.

  • 05

    Ogyen Choling Palace

    A manor house in the Tang valley, now a family-run museum of rural aristocratic life.

  • 06

    Ura village

    A cobbled village of tightly packed houses at the top of the highest of the four valleys.

Things to do

  • Walk between temples along the Choekhor valley
  • Watch yathra wool being woven in Chumey
  • Taste Swiss-style cheese, local honey and Red Panda beer from the valley's small producers
  • Hike the Tang valley to Ogyen Choling
  • Time your visit for the Jambay Lhakhang Drup or Ura Yakchoe festival

Local tips

  • Domestic flights to Bathpalathang airport can save the long drive back west — subject to schedule.
  • Nights are cold year-round; most lodges have wood stoves or heaters.

Journeys that include Bumthang

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