Sunrise over the broad glacial valley of Phobjikha

Western Bhutan · 2,900 m

Phobjikha & Gangtey

A wide glacial valley of wetlands and potato fields, and the winter home of the black-necked crane.

Phobjikha is the valley; Gangtey Goemba is the monastery on its western ridge. Together they make one of the most peaceful places to spend a night or two in Bhutan.

Phobjikha feels like a different country after the steep, wooded valleys of the west. The road climbs over a pass and suddenly opens onto a broad, bowl-shaped valley — marshland at its centre, pine forest on the slopes, farmhouses dotted across fields of potatoes and turnips.

Every year, from about late October, black-necked cranes fly in from the Tibetan plateau to winter in these wetlands. Local legend says they circle Gangtey Goemba three times on arrival and again before they leave in spring. The whole valley protects them: there is a festival in their honour, a conservation centre, and power cables buried underground so the birds can fly safely.

The monastery of Gangtey stands on the ridge above, its village around it. We suggest a night here at the least — long enough to walk the nature trail, sit by a wood stove in a farmhouse and wake to frost on the fields and the call of cranes.

Things to see

  • 01

    Gangtey Goemba

    A seventeenth-century Nyingma monastery on a forested spur, with a village of farmhouses gathered around it.

  • 02

    Black-necked Crane Information Centre

    Run by the Royal Society for Protection of Nature, with observation telescopes over the wetland.

  • 03

    The Phobjikha wetlands

    The roosting ground for the cranes each winter, and a beautiful open landscape at any time of year.

  • 04

    Kumbu Lhakhang & village farmhouses

    Small temples and traditional homes scattered across the valley floor.

Things to do

  • Walk the Gangtey Nature Trail down through pine forest to the valley floor
  • Watch the cranes at dawn between late October and February
  • Spend an evening with a farming family in a traditional home
  • Attend the Black-necked Crane Festival at Gangtey Goemba each November
  • Mountain bike on the quiet farm tracks around the valley

Local tips

  • Evenings are cold at almost three thousand metres, even in summer — bring a warm layer.
  • Electricity lines here were laid underground to protect the cranes in flight — a small detail that says a lot.
  • Please keep a respectful distance from the birds; your guide will know the best viewpoints.

Journeys that include Phobjikha

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