Punakha Dzong at the meeting of the Pho Chhu and Mo Chhu rivers

Western Bhutan · 1,250 m

Punakha

A warm, low valley of rice and rivers, watched over by the most beautiful dzong in the country.

The old winter capital, where two rivers meet beneath Punakha Dzong and rice terraces climb the hillsides to the Khamsum Yulley chorten.

Coming down from Dochula, the road drops through forest for more than an hour and the air grows warmer with every bend. By the time you reach the valley floor there are banana trees, cactus hedges and fields of rice — Punakha sits nearly two thousand metres lower than the pass.

For three centuries this was Bhutan’s winter capital, and Punakha Dzong still has a regal presence: whitewashed walls rising straight from the confluence of two rivers, gold roofs and carved timber galleries, a covered bridge leading to the main gate. It is where the first King was crowned in 1907, and where royal weddings are still celebrated.

The valley around it invites slowness. Walk to Chimi Lhakhang between rice terraces, cross the long suspension bridge, raft gently past the dzong, or simply spend a late afternoon by the river as the light turns gold on the walls.

Things to see

  • 01

    Punakha Dzong

    Built in 1637–38 at the meeting of the Pho Chhu and Mo Chhu. In spring, the jacaranda trees around it flower lilac.

  • 02

    Chimi Lhakhang

    A small temple associated with Drukpa Kunley, the 'Divine Madman', reached by a pleasant walk through rice fields.

  • 03

    Khamsum Yulley Namgyal Chorten

    A hilltop temple built by the Queen Mother, with views along the whole valley from its rooftop.

  • 04

    Punakha suspension bridge

    One of the longest suspension bridges in the country, hung with prayer flags above the Pho Chhu.

  • 05

    Sangchhen Dorji Lhuendrup Nunnery

    A hilltop nunnery and training centre overlooking the Punakha and Wangdue valleys.

Things to do

  • Walk through the rice fields of Sopsokha to Chimi Lhakhang
  • Float down the Mo Chhu on a gentle rafting trip
  • Cycle the riverside road towards the dzong
  • Picnic on the riverbank below the dzong
  • Hike up to Khamsum Yulley through terraced farmland

Local tips

  • Punakha is noticeably warmer than Paro and Thimphu — pack something light.
  • The Punakha Drubchen and Tshechu, usually in February or March, are among the most spectacular festivals of the year.
  • Rice harvest is generally in late September and October, when the valley turns gold.

Journeys that include Punakha

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